Iximche Tikal: Mayan Past Meets Present

A short look back to the beginning of the week brings to mind our trip to Iximche Tikal, an ancient Mayan city, on the first full day in Guatemala. Since then we have seen much of the vibrancy amidst crushing poverty in contemporary Guatemala, and it strikes me that first day set the stage. Our guide, Abraham, had a deep passion and pride in Mayan history-- he was not parroting a set speech for a buck--  and his passion was infectious. As an archaeology degree graduate, he shared with us his world view that there were 5 great civilizations in the ancient world: in China, Egypt, Mesopotamia, the Incas and… the Mayans! I try not to be Euro-centric, but it was fascinating that not even Greece and Rome made his list!

 

Together we went there: Duane and Ellie Z and Ryan S and Nikki and me, passing through towns of cinderblock and corrugated metal, vivid hibiscus, jacaranda and bougainvillea punctuated by wrought iron bars and barbed wire, with the occasional well-groomed home of people of means, The van swerving on the roads crowded with people and vehicles zipping by, sometimes a whole family on a motorbike - baby included (later we would hear in La Esquintla Hospital about how frequent and severe the injuries when such loaded bikes got hit.) We chose to see these grass-covered ruins for a variety of reasons; history geekery, adventure seeking… Nikki told us one of her father’s favorite sayings was, “If you don’t know the past you can’t understand the present and aren’t prepared for the future.” Ryan S. says he’s a curious person, so he likes to know what people did and why they did it, whether they are alive today or from long ago.

Mayan Ball Game as recreated by us

Beautiful Ruins at Iximche Tikal, Guatemala

The Mayans liked to have a good time and a standard feature in great Mayan towns was the ball court. In early Mayan times the game had a religious aspect, with the game played on Earth, in the Underworld and in Heaven by divinities. The game was played with a solid rubber ball about the size of a basketball. As you can imagine, getting whacked by it could do damage and so players played with arm and shin guards. Rules said the ball could not be hit by the hands or feet, but only with the hips, knees and elbows. Goals were made by knocking this heavy ball above one’s head into a marker. It could be played 1:1 or in teams of up to 10. The stadiums were packed with avid fans. Surviving Mayan art depicts the game and its aftermath; Abraham was careful to let us know that historians and archaeologists are not in agreement about whether those depicted being sacrificed after the game were the winners or the losers! Just getting booed was not an option.

Later the game was played more for sport and entertainment of the crowd, and so under Abraham’s guidance, a backpack was set as a temporary goal marker and some of our team- Ryan, Nikki and Duane-  had a go at hitting a free shot, using a soft air-filled ball. No goals were made, but a good time was had by all ---and happily everyone survived!

Walking among the beautiful ruined step pyramids, we learned that the Mayan had a writing system for over 2000 years, highly developed mathematics, including the invention of the number zero, and a very sophisticated knowledge of astronomy based on carefully recorded observations made with the naked eye. Their religion included many gods and goddesses, who were looked to for their power over different aspects of life. Life was lived close to nature, and so their religion reflected that. In their beliefs, first humans were made of maize (corn), rather than of earth as in the Judeo-Christian religions. The four color of Mayan corn, white, black, red and yellow were sacred, as were the four cardinal directions, North, East South and West associated with each corn type, forming the pre-Christian Mayan cross, with a turquoise hue at the center. In their creation belief, the gods had spilt their own blood to give life to the first humans. And that is why  over the centuries the Mayans sacrificed their blood to the gods, who have not forgotten the debt and liked to call it in.

Wikipedia will tell you that Guatemala is about 60% Catholic and 40% Protestant Christians. But Abraham said there yet survives a Mayan religious tradition in direct and blended forms. Mayan priests are still consulted to prepare an offering for the gods to answer a particular prayer. A petitioner may ask the priest for a blessing, or to invoke harm on someone. In the latter case, the petitioner is warned that unless the harm is justice instead of pure malice, it will come back to the ill- wisher ten-fold. The correct title for these men---or women--- is ‘Counter of Days’,  because of the centrality of their calendar and astrology to their religion. For a given prayer, these sacred specialists select the specific locations and sacrifice to be offered.


And so it came about that as we reached far edge of Iximche Tikal were came upon a Mayan priest and a family about to begin a ceremony for which that location was required. With permission, we watched as candles were lit, incense made from select tree bark was burned, and the family prayed together with the priests. Fires were lit to receive the sacrifice, a couple wary chickens were tethered close by. Although it is very foreign to us, Abraham told us that that same family might also be attending church as regular parishioners, not seeing a contradiction holding sacred both religions.

So what has all that got to do with service trips and healthcare and community service and living the mission? It does! It was an immediate and profound reminder that of the immense diversity of beliefs about how the world makes sense to people, that our assumptions are not the only ones out there, and that families the world round come together when in need to support each other. The afternoon at Iximche Tikal established we are not at home, we cannot meet the Guatemalan experience with judgment or even assumptions, we need first to discover their reality to be able to engage and help, we benefit ourselves as much as our hosts when we approach with curiosity and a willingness to learn as well as share our knowledge and labor. The days that followed working side by side with each other and with our Guatemalan hosts, talking and laughing, and teaching and learning are a treasure.

Siobhan Dugan, Employee Health and Safety Specialist, APR